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The Southwest Comes to Union Square

Jennifer Kong

Issue date: 3/10/03 Section: Arts & Entertainment
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We should all have fun while we eat. Celebrity chef and owner, Bobby Flay, has incorporated the fun aspect of dining out at his Southwestern regional cuisine restaurant, Mesa Grill. Everything from the bright colors, tasteful artwork, lively music and all of the small details thereafter make the diner feel welcome and at ease, unlike many other uppity celebrity chef restaurants. I should have known, though, because I have seen Bobby Flay in action on his television shows and have read his columns in the New York Times. His idea of food and the experience of dining out is to enjoy each taste and moment. “Our goal with Mesa Grill has always been to create an atmosphere of what I call serious fun. Behind the exciting, playful food, there is a strong vision of American cuisine,” Bobby says on his website. His innovative spin on the traditional Southwestern fare makes the experience unique and memorable.

My guest and I were immediately seated at a table on the balcony, overlooking the kitchen, bar and the rest of the dining room. It was a cozy spot, and gave me the chance to observe everything in action. I loved the southwestern color scheme. It was contemporary, yet not outdated, as bright greens, yellows and oranges tend to be. Black and white photographs hung on the wall accented the lively colors nicely.

Our server was quite knowledgeable of the extensive wine list, and was very friendly. Although we had a late reservation she never hurried us and was always helpful when we had questions. We had already taken a look at the menu on the website before hand, (which is one of the best designed restaurant websites I have seen so far), so we pretty much had an idea of what we wanted. A platter of housemade blue corn chips and goat cheese dip on a sizzling hot cast iron dish was our chosen appetizer. Such a simple combination turned out to be so good! I had never had melted goat cheese before, but then again, any kind of melted cheese is fine. Once the cheese cooled off, though, it became difficult to pick up with the corn chips. I wound up scooping up the last of the cheese with my fork anyway, since it was too hard to resist finishing every last bit of it.

The beef short ribs braised in red wine with smoked chilies was a great choice for my entrée. The meat was so tender and soft, and as much as I hate to use the phrase, it melted in my mouth “like buttah.” It rested atop a mound of cornmeal polenta, which had bits of goat cheese, melted throughout, and was a perfect accompaniment, if you like polenta.

My guest had decided on one of the more expensive items on the menu – spice crusted Black Angus sirloin with housemade Mesa steak sauce, horseradish, and crème frâiche. It classically came with a side of a double baked potato, which added to the “strong vision of American cuisine.” Aside from being a great slice of beef, the steak sauce was amazing and the texture of the crispy crust and juicy center of the steak was perfect.

All of the portions were filling, but when the dessert menu came around, I decided I had to splurge and satisfy my sugar craving. A pineapple upside-down cake would never have been my first choice, but it turned out to be one of my favorites. Although a little too sweet after a few bites, a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream rounded out the flavor, and a real pineapple chip decorated the plate creatively. (Similar to apple chips, pineapple chips are thin slices of pineapple brushed with a simple syrup and baked until crisp.) The semi-sweetness of the chocolate crème brulee helped to balance out the tart from the pineapple cake. These traditional desserts, which originally sounded boring on the menu, had turned out to be exceptionally good and originally presented.

I didn’t expect to see Bobby Flay there, but his energy and passion can definitely be felt. Eating at Mesa is not simply having another meal, it is an adventure for your senses. Bring your credit card, though. A three-course meal and a bottle of wine for two cost us a little over $150. Once I recover financially from that evening, I plan on returning to Mesa Grill. A memorable night of good food and wine with a close friend is worth going back for a second round.


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